As I write this, the wind is howling and snow is flying past the windows. Ahh, a beautiful Michigan spring day! This time of year is so rough on everyone, but especially those of us who can’t wait to be back out in our gardens. Even though it’s probably too cold, wet, or unpredictable to plant out most things, it’s time to start thinking about your spring to-do list and start seeds. Even though it seems like it’ll never, ever get here, true spring will eventually show its face. So let’s get ready.
Starting Seeds
Starting Seeds
Can’t wait to get planting?! It’s time to start some seeds! When it’s absolutely freezing and miserable outside, I start trays of seeds, or I go and poke at my seedlings just so I can look at something green.
Remember when we talked about garden planning during the winter months? It’s time to bust out the plan and get cracking. If you still need seeds, they’re in stock everywhere right now! Some great local options:
- FREE seed library at all KDL locations
- Starbard Farms – choose the quantity you’d like of every seed
You’ll also need a great seed starting medium. You can always find supplies at Meijer, but another great local option for soil for both starting seeds and your garden itself is family-owned Keller Homestead, which is a quick drive into Clarksville.
Starting Seeds Supplies
To get started, you’ll need:
- Seeds (obviously)
- Seed starting trays – kits are available locally at Meijer, or read below for DIY options!
- Seed starting soil
- A large bucket or bowl
- A water source
- Lights (optional but great to have!)
DIY options! You don’t need to grow in expensive, fancy trays if it’s just not in your budget. I’m a huge proponent of LOW BUDGET GARDENING. You do not need to spend a ton to get growing. Seeds don’t know or care what you grow them in. Toilet paper rolls, yogurt cups, milk jugs, egg cartons … look around your home and get creative. You just need to make sure your containers are clean (and stay clean), and find a way to add some drainage holes to the bottom of a container and something waterproof to set your little containers in (honestly, foil pans from Dollar Tree will work just fine) and you’re good to go.
Step-by-Step
Seed starting methods can vary based on the seed type. But in general, here’s what you need to do.
1. Get your seed starting medium (it has fancy names but let’s just call it soil, okay? Okay.) Pour your soil into a bucket, a large bowl or other container, and get it moistened. You don’t want it drippy or muddy. Just enough water that it’s noticeably damp. Never plant in bone dry soil or try to water after planting. Trust me — you will just end up disrupting and possibly drowning your seeds.
2. Fill your seed starting cell packs or DIY cups with moistened soil. If this takes you forever, don’t feel bad. It takes a heck of a lot longer to fill the cups than it does to plant the seeds. I’ve been doing it for years and I’m still slow.
3. Plant your seeds according to the seed packet. If seeds need light to germinate, you really should just sprinkle them on top. I know that feels counterintuitive to “planting” seeds — but in nature many plants simply drop their seeds on top of the soil. Otherwise, plant at the recommended depth. I do two seeds in every cell, just in case some don’t germinate.
4. Cover. Most seeds benefit from humidity while they germinate. Seed starting kits will come with a plastic dome. If you’re DIYing it, try some cling wrap or the lid of a clear plastic tote. If you don’t have anything you can use, don’t worry. Your seeds will probably be okay, they just might take a little bit longer.
5. If you have grow lights, set your seeds under them. They need to be a lot closer than you think. No grow lights? No problem. Stick your seeds in the sunniest window you have. They might get a little leggy without grow lights, but we’re close enough to April to hopefully count on some warmer days so you can get those seed babies outside.
6. Water as needed. Don’t drown your seedlings by going overboard on the water! When the top of the soil is dry and crumbly, go ahead and water. You can bottom water (fill the tray they’re in so that the soil will gently soak up the water) or lightly mist the top. Too much water can lead to problems with seedlings dampening off (aka spontaneously dying) or other issues.
When to Plant: Gardening Zones and Last Frost
Whether you’re an experienced grower or a bit new, the first thing you need to know is your growing zone (or hardiness zone). Here in Lowell, you’re likely either a 5b or a 6a. Knowing your zone is important when calculating your season length for annual crops and when selecting perennials. But I’ll just tell you what you need to know to get started for most things:
It’s generally safe to plant out most things around May 15, which is more or less our last frost date. This isn’t foolproof, always check the weather forecast before you plant. There have been years I haven’t felt comfortable putting anything in the ground until much later, and in 2021 we had a freakishly cold and frosty night on May 29th! But as a general rule, wait until after Mother’s Day.
Around May 1 at the latest, plan to start hardening off your seedlings. This means you’re getting them ready to leave their plush, climate controlled life inside your house and acclimate to the unpredictable conditions of the great outdoors.
On day 1, as long as it’s above freezing, bring your delicate little plant babies to a sheltered, shaded location. Check on them frequently. If they look distressed, abort mission and head inside. Otherwise, expose them to longer and longer stretches of outdoor time, increasing their exposure to the sun and wind a little each day. Light rain in the forecast? That’s awesome for plants too. Avoid heavy rain while they’re in trays (they will drown). And be sure to keep them in a sheltered area where they are not going to be blown over by gusts of wind (ask me how I know that last one … go ahead).
The hardening off process takes about two weeks, meaning that if Mother Nature is cool to us this year, you’ll be able to plant out right after our predicted last frost of May 15.
There’s More
There’s a lot that goes into seed starting and spring prep that I haven’t even covered here — these are the very basics just to get you going. The more you learn, the more you’ll find that there are just so many variables and things to know. Different varieties of plants need different things. Some plants DO need to be sown outdoors in terrible, cold weather. Some seeds should have been started way back in December or January.
And some plants are just going to die, no matter what you do. Don’t let it upset you too much. This doesn’t mean you have a black thumb — I’ve been growing for years and I still occasionally kill things … it’s just part of gardening. There is still time — our growing season lasts through roughly the end of September, and I plant seeds weekly until mid August — just get a new tray ready and try again.
Happy Spring! I’m off to shovel the steps.
Nicole Crocker is a specialty cut flower farmer and owner of Buddy and Bean Flower Farm in Lowell. You can find her flower arrangements on her roadside stand when they’re in season. Connect with her on Facebook or Instagram, or at www.buddyandbeanflowers.com.
Leave a Reply