This article was originally published on August 14, 2020 on The Restless Viking website.
Gergei village, Sardinia Italy
This is the front gate to Mario Cesare’s home.
In the quaint village of Gergei, Sardina is Mario Cesare’s cottage tucked between stone walls, which was our housing for one night.
This is a lovely garden with citrus trees and an olive tree.
The gate is at the bottom right.
Mario had been an artist who painted and drew portraits of locals capturing their character. His scenes were of village life. He didn’t reach for fame, but rather created authentic representations of farmers, shepards, market workers and women doing everyday tasks.
Mario’s artwork is displayed throughout his home.
Mario’s presence filled his cottage. The atmosphere was in tact with Mario’s paints and brushes left out on the table. Some artwork was set out, too. It gave me the feeling that he had just been working minutes before. Resting on a wicker chair by the small door was his paint shirt and leather boots. Through the miniature doorway was a cozy garden with olive and citrus trees.
Notice the tiny door on the left.
This tiny door led from the bedroom to the back garden.
After our dinner at a nearby tattoria (restaurant) we slept. Gulia (Julia) arrived at 7:30 am as planned to prepare breakfast for us. I’d guess Gulia was in her mid-twenties. In Sardinia we felt like all we did was eat! We’d go on a stroll, then eat, sleep, then eat. I was glad I’d brought all stretchy pants! Crisis averted!
Gulia’s homemade cheese, meat, cake, honey and jams.
As Gulia set out an array of homemade specialties, she explained what each item was. She had baked a lemon bunt cake and prepared goat milk yogurt. Homemade jams, cheese and honey were ready. There were freshly boiled eggs from her chickens. She had dried sausage and cured ham. Fresh citrus fruit and pears brightened the table.
Mario’s artwork is hung throughout the cottage.
“You know there’s only two of us? Right?” Chuck chuckled politely. He asked how she came to own this cottage. This is the part of travel that we enjoy the most – looking behind the curtain and peering into other people’s history and their motivations. We feel we can learn from everyone. We weren’t prepared for Gulia’s enthusiasm and charm! Her passion and energy radiated. After years living in the capital city, Cagliari, and traveling to other countries, she has come back here to build her life in the village where she was raised, Gergei. With a world of experience and insight she wants to bring back the time honored traditions of Sardinia.
Gulia’s dedication to making wholesome foods with a stunning presentation was impressive!
In this photo you can easily see Mario’s paint shirt on the chair and boots by the door.
Gulia remembered Mario as being unapproachable when she was a youngster. There had been rumors of his odd personality. She had been warned to stay away from him. She said now she wishes that she’d gotten to know him better.
Mario’s drawing of a local villager.
Early in Mario’s young adult life a woman had taken advantage of him and robbed him of his savings. This self taught artist retreated to this homestead and never opened his heart to love again. With regular visits the post carrier was able to build trust and a friendship with Mario. Years later when Mario passed, he left his cozy cottage to his only friend, the postman.
Another portrait of a boy who lived in Gergei
Shortly after Mario’s death Gulia had heard that the postman would be selling the property. She was interested. The historical society board got involved and made an offer, too. Gulia presented her desire to update the space and bring in tourists who would want “a local flavor” when they visited Sardinia. She stood her ground and explained that if the home was purchased by the board, it may stay empty and decay further, where she was prepared to put her whole heart into the project with the help of her family and friends. Gulia was awarded the title to the property.
Gulia is the proud owner of Mario Cesare’s cottage. With the help of family and friends she has remodeled the home while honoring the atmosphere of Mario Cesare.
Gulia, her family and friends got to work. The cottage had never had electricity or plumbing. It needed a new roof, kitchen appliances as well as patching and painting the walls. Gulia installed some electrical heaters as well.
Gulia installed plumbing and electricity as well as a new roof and heaters.
During the remodeling Gulia had dreams that Mario was angry with her for renovating his house. To honor him she left many personal items and several pieces of artwork inside the property. She kept his memory alive.
Gulia organized an art festival to honor Mario Cesare called “MaCe” on September 30, 2019. The whole village was involved! Twenty-five artists would be actively painted with the themes of Mario Cesare: nature, traditional dress, colorful doorways and local scenes. There were five food stations served by local restaurants. At the end of the day the very first Mario Cesare Award of 3,500 Euros would be presented. What a great way to revere Mario! She hasn’t had a nightmare since. We agree that Mario must be pleased!
A map of the MaCe Festival that Gulia had organized.
Gulia has purchased a nearby farm and was bubbling with excitement about her plans as she flipped through photos on her phone. She said she was a “storm” in her boyfriend’s life. She embraces living authentically and sharing these traditions with villagers and travelers alike.
She is a doula (midwife) and knows the ancient practices of using herbs to cure ailments. Many villagers come to her for treatments. “Many would call me a Strega.” Gulia nodded. Strega is translated as “witch.” I got goosebumps! (I loved reading the “Strega Nona” books by Tomie dePaola.) And here I was talking with a true, living Strega! Gulia is so giving and connected, always ready to serve others. I marvel at her intuition, passion and hard work. She’s so young and so confident! What a dynamic gal!
Her grandmother and mother are known for these skills, too. If a villager had the “evil eye” curse (bad luck), Gulia’s grandmother would first drop oil in water. If it formed random dots she’d shake her head. If it made a pattern she would perform a spell to cast away the curse. She’d take ashes from the Saint Anthony bonfire and form a cross on one’s forehead. (The annual Saint Anthony bonfire is done at the end of January to wake the soil after the long winter.) Then she’d take a combination of salt, oil and water and form the cross on one’s palms while reciting the magical words (still a secret). This would cure the curse of the ‘evil eye.’
Meeting Gulia filled me with wonder and hope for the future of this small village. The MaCe Art Festival will carry on in Mario’s honor due to Gulia’s diligence and skills in organizing! Her charismatic kindness will continue to reach others and make this world a better place.
Chuck and Martha Hayden, aka The Viking and Poppins, enjoy going on adventures off the beaten path. They also like to share their explorations with others. The Viking is a retired expedition leader while Poppins is a retired teacher. The two offer independent views of their journeys showcasing places, people, and cultures as they explore the world. Visit and follow them on their website and social media accounts. Website | Facebook | Instagram |YouTube
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